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by Jeanette Simpson

July 16, 2020

Bonaparte Retreat  

Combine the love of providing delicious home-cooked meals with historic preservation and what do you have? The pure essence of the Bonaparte Retreat restaurant.

Rose and Ben Hendricks opened the restaurant in the tiny town of Bonaparte, Iowa in 1970. Originally across the street from its current location, a fire forced the restaurant’s move. Instead of rebuilding on that site, the Hendricks bought the old Meek’s Grist Mill building and immediately began renovation.

Old Meeks Gristmill in Bonaparte Iowa

This original structure, built in 1878, once housed a grist mill. It now serves as home for the Bonaparte Retreat restaurant.

Location:
713 1st Street
Bonaparte, IA 52620

Contact:
(319) 592-3339

Hours:
Lunch: 11 AM-1 PM, daily
Dinner: 5-8 PM, Mon-Sat

Website:
www.bonaparteretreat.com

worthy detours places to eat in iowa

Our dinner included a Rib Eye Steak (for Tom), a Beef Burger Steak (for Jeanette), each served with wild-rice dressing, soup, salad, and delicious pan-fried bread.

Home-Cooked Meals

Why did they open a restaurant to begin with? Rose’s reply was, ”In the 70’s, everyone wanted to start a restaurant and I loved to cook.” She was main cook for many years but now keeps everything flowing smoothly in the kitchen. However, she still jumps in to help during busy times

Since we live within an hour of the Retreat, we have enjoyed lunch several times. The lunch menu includes sandwiches, soup of the day, salad and sides—and of course, yummy homemade pie.

According to Rose, steaks are the dinnertime favorite so for our 1st dinner there, that’s what we ordered. Tom’s rib-eye was huge and tasty.  And my burger steak so good it did not need steak sauce. (That’s quite a compliment coming from one who isn’t a big beefeater!) And as a bonus, there was definitely enough food to take home and enjoy as leftovers.

Home-cooked meals like your grandma made are served daily at the Retreat. Nothing fancy. It’s just good food.

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The dining room on the main floor is filled with antiques. Original brick wall, large wood beams, and exposed floor joists overhead create a feeling of yesteryear.

“It’s the Real Thing”

I asked Rose what made Bonaparte Retreat unique. She replied, “It’s the real thing,” which showed me her 2nd love—historic preservation.

When the Hendricks purchased the old gristmill, it was a mess, having been empty for many years. Renovation took a great deal of work, most of which Rose and Ben did themselves. Maintaining the building’s character was the goal.

The 1878 structure is original, including the exposed brick walls, support beams, and open ceiling showing the 2nd floor joists. Except for new windows and slight modification to the porch, the building’s exterior is the real thing, including the original water wheel.

decor at restaurant entrance

Beautifully decorated porch sets the mood as you enter the Bonaparte Retreat. Decorations change with the season--especially beautiful in this spring scene. 

Décor Sets the Mood

Beginning at the entrance, décor sets the mood. A vintage milk can and child’s wagon spilling over with flowers greet you as you approach the heavy wood-slat door. Once inside, the feeling of rich old wood and brick from days of long ago take over.

Antiques and collectibles are found at every turn. Windowsills hold artistic groupings of vintage items. Printed canvas, resembling seed bags, covers one lower panel on the bar.

Woven leather strap-back, wood-frame chairs along with leather and nail head upholstered bentwood chairs add to diners’ comfort. Country music plays softly in the background. It’s loud enough to hear without being a distraction, allowing for easy conversation.

leather horse saddle as restaurant decor

Vintage saddle sits astride the partial wall near the entrance.

Bonaparte Retreat antique accessories

Memorabilia from the life of owner Ben Hendricks adorns one large furniture piece in the dining room.

worthy detours places to eat bonaparte iowa

Printed canvas, resembling seed bags, cover one end of the bar.

On the River

Rose also mentioned their location adjacent the Des Moines River sets the Retreat apart. With raised eyebrows and a little smile, she said, “That can be a good thing or a bad thing.” I see it as 99% good.

There’s something about gently flowing water and the sound it emits that adds to relaxation. Our view from table by the window was calming and pleasant. We could see the mill’s waterwheel, hanging flower baskets in the yard, and the river beyond. The river just added even more pleasure to the overall feeling within.

Bonaparte Retreat celebrates their 50th anniversary in 2020. After dining there and visiting with the owner and ultra-friendly staff, it’s easy to see why they have lasted so long. Looking for a no-rush, relaxing meal in a beautiful setting? Bonaparte Retreat is definitely worth the detour.

Des Moines River adjacent old gristmill in Iowa

Original water wheel remains attached to the building just above the mill pond. A beautiful lawn with walkways and flowers lead down to the Des Moines River wall.

worthy detours places to eat in iowa

Rose, son James, and granddaughter Katelyn.

About the Owner

Rose and Ben Hendricks opened the Bonaparte Retreat in 1970. Ben has since passed away but Rose, along with her children and grandchildren, continue serving delicious meals every day. In fact, Rose has been at the restaurant almost every day for the last 50 years. Quite a tribute to her love of cooking! The Hendricks were raised in the area and have lived there most of their lives, becoming permanent pillars of the community.

Looking for more yummy foods to enjoy?
Head over to our "Places to Eat" page for other Worthy Detour stops.

About the author

Blogger. Author. Designer. Traveler. Mom. Loves the USA, history, architecture, and interior design. Digs family history. Found preachers and a few interesting characters. Mostly farmers. DNA. Could explain why she loves playing in the dirt (AKA gardening). Isn’t afraid of bugs, but if you see her running across the yard, there’s probably a wasp or snake nearby.

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